Tracks

Pipalyatjara, unlike many other settlements, was lucky in

We all woke up with tight forced smiles which soon enough disintegrated into covert then overt weeping.

He was also the most easily

‘I’d like you to meet Robyn Davidson, she’s taking camels across Australia.’ I didn’t know quite how to deal with that one except to fall in with it. Another t

It was the inauspicious beginning of the ‘camel lady’ image which I should have nipped in the bud right there.

My first impression as we strolled down the deserted street was of the architectural ugliness of the place, a discomforting contrast to the magnificence of the

It was my turn to smile.

My geologist friend dropped me off at the pub, and from there I walked north up the Charles River bed. It was a delightful walk, under cool and shady trees. The silence was often broken by packs of camp dogs who raced out with their hackles up to tell me and Diggity to get out of their territory, only to have bottles, cans and curses flung at them by their Aboriginal owners, who none the less smiled and nodded at us.

run wild up there ya know. You’ll need someone to keep an eye on ya. Tell youze what, I’ll shout youze a beer, then we’ll go back to your cabin and get acquainted eh? Whaddya reckon?’

‘G’day, mind if I sit ’ere?’

(Sighing and looking pointedly out the window or at book.) ‘No.’

(Dropping of the eyes to chest level.) ‘Where’s yer old man?’

‘I don’t have an old man.’

(Faint gleam in bleary, blood-shot eye, still fixed at chest level.) ‘Jesus Christ, mate, you’re not goin’ to the Alice alone are ya? Listen ’ere, lady, you’re fuckin’ done for. Them coons’ll rape youze for sure