Appetites

MUSHROOM SAUTÉED WITH SHALLOTS

Because they are so full of moisture, screaming high heat is essential here for getting your mushrooms to brown, and not steam, in the pan, so really preheat the pan before adding them. Use only the small amount of oil called for here, and do not overload the pan. You are sautéing, not poaching. Do not screw this up with any of these common—but entirely avoidable—mistakes.

Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish
1 tablespoon canola or grapeseed oil
1 pound mushrooms, any variety, thinly sliced
4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
In a large, heavy-bottom sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat until it shimmers and just begins to smoke. Add the mushrooms and cook over high heat, tossing and stirring frequently with a wooden spoon or spatula, until the mushrooms become browned at the edges, and fragrant, about 4 minutes. The mushrooms should make a squeaking noise as they move across the pan.
Add the shallots and season with salt and pepper. Adding salt will cause the mushrooms to release their juices. Continue to cook over high heat until the juices have been sizzled away. Once the mushrooms are well browned and tender, add the butter, toss well to coat, then add the parsley. Remove from the heat and serve at once.

BAGNA CÀUDA WITH CRUDITÉS

Tomato soup remains the taste of comfort, security, and recently dried tears. It should make you feel better. It should not wander too far from the stuff that comes in a can. It should be served with Saltine crackers or oysterettes.